Ipoh, 2024

Ipoh in the 1970’s was a melting pot of multiculturalism and vibrancy. Chinese boys danced the ‘Ago-go’ or ‘cha-cha’ together with Malay cabaret girls from Jubilee Park Nightclub, with the random Ah Chong, Ali and Muthu laughing heartily over Ipoh white coffee at the quintessential Ipoh coffee house that still exists till today. Throngs of passersby on their way to Penang have always stopped by this charming town for food, fun and a little bit of shopping. Ipoh was never left out of with the development of Malaysia, it has remained alive and in fact even more alive now that the country has reached a great degree of affluency.

Nowadays, Ipoh experiences a high influx of visitors from neighbouring cities like Kuala Lumpur and Penang, those who miss the good old days when Malaysia was not so divided by race and religious sensibilities. Ipoh is where they get reacquainted with the nostalgic 60’s and 70’s and wistfully ponder upon how united Malaysia could be. Although the town has experienced some gentrification, most urban dwellers are seduced by its old town appeal, with hotels and small cafes becoming the features of the old part of Ipoh. I wondered, like most jaded cosmopolitanites, whether Ipoh could be a suitable retirement place once we’re done running the rat race. After all, it’s just a train trip away from KL Sentral, and if we feel like it, we can go all the way to Hat Yai by train from Ipoh station.

Those who hail from Ipoh would remember old establishments like Kong Heng, Sin Heng Loong and Old Town coffee shops that still stand the test of time. Some Chinese F&B establishments like Canning Town Dim Sum and Chang Jiang Coffee have embraced Halal and pork-free menus to accommodate the Malay segment of society , and profit from them. What is a trip to Ipoh without enjoying their delectable delicacies? Those who moved far away after having been born and bred in Ipoh literally have dreams of its Taugeh Chicken Rice, Salt Baked Chicken, the original tau foo fah and the rich, thickly blended Ipoh white coffee that KL establishments can never get quite right.

If you’re a tourist like me, the first stop in Ipoh after a long 2-and-a-half-hour journey from Kuala Lumpur would be at Ben’s in Sekeping Kong Heng. It’s a nice industrial building that infuses green foliage within a metal structure. The building, designed by famed landscape architect, Ng Seksan, is fitting for a picturesque Instagram post, and is located in the old part of town where one can see and experience the real Ipoh. A short stop over at Concubine Lane will bring you to rows of stalls that sell snacks and a myriad of knick-knacks. Then a stroll along the corridors of colonial era buildings will bring you to both new and old cafes and restaurants.

The allure of Ipoh is that it is a place almost frozen in time, with the younger generation striving to keep old traditions alive. The Chinese migrants from China practiced their ancient religions and built temples where their beliefs are venerated. I visited Kek Look Tong, Sam Poh Tong and Perak Tong temples. The Kek Look Tong leads to an open passageway to a lake within the limestone mountain. It truly is a quaint view with the reflection of the mighty limestone hills painted on the mirrored surface of the lake.

A peaceful town like this shouldn’t be assumed to be dearth of night life. With more and more KL- lites like me seriously considering relocating to Ipoh for retirement, Ipoh is still considerably lively after 8 pm. I went to Hard Rock Cafe Ipoh that is located at Palo 101 to listen to live bands and enjoy a bevy of drinks with good company. Or if you love people watching or fancy a stroll along the lit pavements under the starry night skies, then Ipoh Football Field is the place to be where there are cafes serving supper like Old Town and Miker’s Pizza.

As Kuala Lumpur and its surrounding suburbs are getting more and more expensive for many of the city dwellers, people like me are looking for an alternative place to live comfortably while still enjoying access to some of the urban comforts we’re used to. In this respect, Ipoh almost has it all and perhaps even more that Kuala Lumpur cannot offer, like less traffic congestion, less commercial franchises, and less loud and rowdy people for a start. Ipoh was never isolated from the rest of the country, even the world; notable celebrities hailing from Ipoh like Michelle Yeoh and several others have achieved success and fame at both the national and global level. It is a place serendipitously located along the way that connects the north to the south, and will be prosperously endowed due to the people passing by. When I visited Ipoh last weekend, I had an interminable smile carved across my face as I witnessed all races mingling with each other over good food and drinks, without the barricade of religion or race separating us as Malaysians.