Istanbul, Glo Damansara

“There’s nothing you can do that can’t be done.”

That’s how the lyrics goes as the chorus marches on in the song ‘All You Need Is Love’ from the Beatles. Love and God – those are the two key ingredients to Chef Deniz Alkoc’s successful Lokanta or Turkish restaurant, aptly named ‘Istanbul’ as a homage to the gorgeous city where Chef Deniz grew up in. Determination to escape the grim grasp of poverty led 12-year-old Deniz to take up his first job as a dishwasher at his uncle’s restaurant and that was when he was first introduced to the world of culinary delights.

Chef Deniz spoke with much zeal and vigorous passion, accompanied with animated hand gestures and a twinkle in his eyes as he expressed his fervid love of cooking, specifically cooking Turkish cuisine. “If I was doing it was for the money, I would have opened another branch at Genting or Pavilion when I was offered by Dato’ so-and-so,” he proudly quips. “But I do this for love. I am not rich, but I am a happy man.” What’s not to be happy about, seeing that his restaurant has garnered a legion of fans, providing him a more-than-comfortable life in Malaysia with his Japanese wife and two children.

Chef Deniz recollected his fond memories of working in his uncle’s fast food shop in 1998, and he regards the experience as significantly transformative. He fondly remembers the restaurant’s star dish, the humble hamburger, being created from scratch. Every single element –  the bun, the beef patty, the sauce, and the freshest vegetables- were carefully put together to make that perfect burger which became an instant hit. This experience surely made an impression on Deniz, that he has carried it with him throughout his career as a chef.

As we continued the fully charged conversation, there was a sudden furrow on Deniz’s face. Without feeling ashamed, and knowing the wisdom and truth behind his words, he admitted, “I never had culinary training at a proper school. I’ve seen those who come from the schools, they don’t know what they’re doing in the kitchen.” Chef Deniz started off as a dishwasher which later earned him the position of a kitchen assistant, working all the way up to being a chef. And he is never ashamed of his humble beginnings.

Hearing Chef Deniz’s story really whet my appetite and ignited my curiosity. Then came the watershed moment that would encapsulate the fiery passion of Chef Deniz’s words – the taste test. My boyfriend and I ordered the Ottoman Kebab, a thick piece of lamb kebab smothered in cheese and white sauce, garnished with Cameron Highland tomatoes and fresh green chillies. One can eat it plain, but here the meal was accompanied by two thick, airy, warm Iskandar bread, a specialty of Chef Deniz’s.

The first bite of the Ottoman kebab had won me over. It felt like I had been transported in time to the feasts at the royal courts of the Ottoman Empire. The meat tasted fresh, a testament that Chef Deniz only used the finest cuts to make the kebab. The spices then gave it that balanced seasoning, and the white sauce, a concoction of mushy green eggplant and cream  topped off with cheese, made the kebab even more loaded with flavour and taste.

After a filling meal fit for the courtesans of the royal courts in the Ottoman Empire, Chef Deniz recommended that we try a quintessential Turkish dessert, the Baklava with ice-cream. “Everything is made from scratch,” he declared with a wide grin. He impressed upon us that it took 7 hours to layer 40 filo sheets to make the Baklava, glazed with forest honey and pistachios. The dessert was the perfect ending to a sumptuous meal that left us hankering for more of Istanbul’s culinary treasures.

Jovial and friendly, Chef Deniz not only left us reeling with satisfaction munching through his dishes, clearly a labour of his love, but we also felt warm and welcomed in his presence. His genuine passion pervaded the whole establishment, from the taste of his food to the lively ambience and the attentive staff. It’s the attention to the finer details and Chef Deniz’s willingness to get his hands dirty doing ordinary tasks, like preparing the ingredients and sweeping the kitchen, that sets Istanbul apart from other Middle Eastern eateries. At the end of the day, after spending a lovely time having a meal at Istanbul, there is absolutely no doubt in my mind that Chef Deniz is a true lover of food whose  honesty towards his craft shows in his scrumptious dishes.