The 3: Middle Eastern Cuisine

When it comes to Middle Eastern cuisine, the first thought that comes to mind is the street kebab, often being a favorite of mine when I was studying in London. I remember taking the tube to Edgware Road, braving the blistering cold winter evenings for that succulent, richly marinated, tender chunks of lamb rolled in warm pita bread with a heirloom recipe of garlic and chili sauce, dripping as I take a delicious bite. I really miss those memories and since I came back to Malaysia, I’ve never really found anything that could come to par.

I visited three prominent Middle Eastern restaurants in Kuala Lumpur to see how they compare – Damascus, Bukit Bintang; Istanbul, Glo Damansara and SAJ by Leen’s, TTDI. Although all of them serve the same type of fare, there are distinct differences in their recipes and their interpretation of Middle Eastern staples. It’s refreshing to see how the chefs in these establishments are willing to take risks and flex their creativity to create innovative dishes. That in itself deserves praise.

Damascus, Bukit Bintang

Potentially number two to the world’s best kebab in Edgware Road is Damascus. Their kebabs are so legendary that time after time they will appear on my TikTok’s FYP, as faithful raving fans can’t seem to get enough of praising it. Between the chicken and the beef, I much prefer the soft slices of beef, charred at the edges, generously filled and rolled together in a pita bread, slathered with homemade garlic sauce and seasoned with a bevy of herbs to give a taste of freshness. Yum! Damascus is more than generous when it comes to the portion. The kebab is fat and juicy, with meat filled to the brim, and one portion is good to fill me up until my next Muay Thai class in the evening.

Apart from the legendary kebab, we decided to try something different this time, and ordered the infamous Maqluba. From my scant knowledge of Middle Eastern cuisine, Maqluba literally means a rice dish turned over from the pot. The rice dish, having been simmered for hours with lamb and spices, produces a rich, deep taste served with a piece of soft, tender chicken leg cooked together in the pot. Mix the chicken with the rice, and swirl it together with a splurge of yogurt, and you will enjoy an orchestra of tastes that is absolutely unforgettable.

Overall experience: 9/10
Price: 9/10

Istanbul, Glo Damansara

My boyfriend and I come to Istanbul, Glo Damansara specifically for their breakfast. The Turkish breakfast has all the components comparable to the English one – eggs, sausages (they call it sucuk) and oh, the oh so soft, freshly baked sesame and plain bagels, cheese and olives and a sweet surprise of fig jam. The eggs are cooked together with pieces of sucuk in a creamy, soft, pillowy consistency and the sausages give it that savory bite. But really, whenever I come to Istanbul for breakfast, I get butterflies in my stomach just imagining digging into a warm bagel smothered with fig jam. It’s still such a novelty to have this combination. Then I swipe the plate with morsels of bagel. It tastes just heavenly. The Turkish breakfast comes with a free refill of hot Turkish tea to down an excellent meal at the start of day.

One thing I like about Istanbul is that you can feel the L.O.V.E. of the Chef pervading his dishes. You can tell that the food is cooked with a lot of tender loving care, and it’s so soul satisfying to be able to enjoy his dishes. You won’t feel shortchanged eating at Istanbul, as they insist on using only the best ingredients in their food, even when this translates into lower margins. When we go to Istanbul, it’s all smiles as we are greeted by the enthusiastic and passionate staff who share the Chef’s love for food and his eagerness to please his customers. That and the reasonable price you pay earns this place a spot in my list of favorites when it comes to value for money in a 5-star setting.

Overall experience: 8/10
Price: 8/10

SAJ by Leen’s, TTDI

It was unfortunate that day that I couldn’t get a table for two at Leen’s, the flagship restaurant located on the first floor above a BSN branch in Jalan Burhanuddin Helmi, TTDI. I was led to their sister restaurant, SAJ, a few units away on the ground floor, hoping to savour the deliciousness of the food at this famed restaurant that had garnered rhapsodic reviews from its legion of fans. My expectations were flamed high.

For the main dish, we ordered the crispy Syrian chicken rice which I thought was put together rather oddly. The rice was crispy in some parts, deliberately I assume, but for what purpose, I don’t know. I’ll be honest, even at this point, despite eating Middle Eastern cuisine as my go-to fix every once in a while, I only recognise the kebab, mandy rice and kunafeh. Granted, the chef wanted to infuse creativity in his dishes, taking that bold risk to think differently, but the end product doesn’t quite cut it. This dish, in particular, tasted quite bland and lacking of personality. Did he intend for it to be similar to briyani, but lacked the spice that gives it the needed punch? Is it supposed to have a more varied flavour than a mandy chicken, with the Syrian rice garnished with more condiments which are not mere ornamental? If this dish was a person, who does it want to be?

I suppose I get what the chef wants to achieve by valiantly experimenting with staple Middle Eastern dishes. I just wasn’t convinced. For a starter we had the Tabbouleh, a gastronomy love affair between Middle Eastern and Japanese cuisine, which I found almost bland. But what saved the day was the Olive ice-cream we had for dessert. It was sweet, with a tinge of a nutty olive taste that doesn’t remind you of the oil, which I thought was so dreamy.

Overall, my experience at SAJ was a little dull despite the chef’s efforts to spice things up. I don’t quite understand this restaurant being a cult favourite, perhaps it was just not my cup of tea. Nevertheless, I’d place SAJ as a fine dining restaurant where the pretty food can be enjoyed at regular restaurant prices. Like the other two Middle Eastern restaurants reviewed here, SAJ by Leen’s is value for money.

Overall experience: 7/10
Price: 7/10