Central Java – East Java, 2025

“I’m leaving my heart in Indonesia.”

That was the thought swirling in my mind on my final day in Jogjakarta after an 11-day thrilling and adventurous road trip across Central Java to East Java. I almost cried. I was overwhelmingly excited for this trip as Wisnu, my tour guide, had meticulously planned the itinerary months before. Wisnu made sure that I managed to savour every drop of what Central Java and East Java had to offer – breathtaking views, warm people and a captivating culture. I was at the heart of what Indonesia really was. In one word, beautiful.

My road trip started with a brief sojourn in Jogjakarta, where I spent two nights. Since I have already explored much of Jogjakarta in my cultural trip last year, this time we spent the nights there in relaxed mode, strolling through Malioboro in the mild evening and enjoying a sumptuous dinner at the famed Reminten restaurant.

The second leg of my trip was when my adventure started. We drove for six hours to Malang, across acres and acres of green paddy fields and spectacular mountainous views. Indonesia is at the crossroads of keeping the old and welcoming the new. There’s the new Indonesia marching into modernity with stretches of inter-city highways built to connect cities and cut travel time significantly; yet, many of the people still hold on to their traditional ways. Swathed in lands dedicated to farming, ancestorial homes marked the kampung scenery which my eyes feasted upon.

These were the unique views that painted the quintessential Indonesian countryside. I was smitten. Batu, a town within Malang, is notable for its elevated lands, fertile for the cultivation of apples, strawberries and oranges. I participated in an apple-picking activity in one of the farms, biting through fresh apples as I plucked them from the trees. The apples were sweet and tasted fresh. Indeed, life in the countryside was charming.

My next stop in Malang was the tea plantation in Wonosari, where tea is planted in cascading terraced plains. It was raining that day and I missed out on the opportunity to take photographs in the enchanting tea plantation. Nevertheless, the trip to Wonosari was not wasted, as I got to taste the different tea drinks produced in the farm. They were simply refreshing, both the views and the tea.

The adventure continued as we made our way to the next destination, Tumpak Sewu. Tumpak Sewu is the name given to the beautiful waterfall which stands at 120 meters high, and to get there one must trek an 800-metre steep path overcoming rocks and the streaming river. What awaits at the end of the trek is the magnificent waterfall flowing from above. It was a spectacle to behold and as a lucky bonus, we were greeted with a rainbow that adorned the scenic view.

It was almost evening when we spent some time at the waterfall, taking in the spellbinding views. For dinner, we made a brief stop at a quaint little restaurant right smack in the paddy fields, overlooking the imposing Gunung Semeru. Gunung Semeru stands as the tallest mountain in Java at over 3676 metres in height and it is also an active volcano. The Indonesian countryside is clearly not only bewitching, but it is also a source of admiration. It is no wonder that colonial powers sought to colonise Indonesia with its rich fertile land, suitable for the cultivation of various fruits, vegetables, and spices.

After our brief stop in Tumpak Sewu, we spent the night at a charming resort on the hills of Lumacang. Perched by the hills overlooking the village, the resort is known as Klinegard Hotel. It is owned by Pak Edy who used to work in Malaysia for 14 years. With his hard-earned money, he bought land in his kampung and in keeping with his entrepreneurial spirit, he built the resort for tourists to stop for the night after visiting Tumpak Sewu. His entrepreneurial bet has paid off, as the resort is consistently fully booked following the popularity of Tumpak Sewu.

One thing I love about being in the villages in Indonesia is listening to the Adhan and Quran recitation during prayer times. I imagine myself sitting in the open-air restaurant at Klinegard resort at sunset while the speakers play the call to prayer along with the rendition of Quranic verses while the soft winds blow gently on my cheeks. I felt truly calm and at peace. Furthermore, I also felt at home.

I was supposed to head to Kawah Ijen after Tumpak Sewu but with a heavy heart I cancelled the trip out of worry for my health. Because the trek going up from Tumpak Sewu was steep, I was constantly out of breath hiking up the steep hill. Wisnu was worried for me as he noticed that I was looking ghastly pale. Given that Kawah Ijen was an even more challenging trek, we decided not to risk my falling ill and therefore did not proceed with the visit to Kawah Ijen.

But my adventure did not stop there. We immediately left for a road trip to our next destination, Mount Bromo. There are fables surrounding the mountains in that area, and the Hindus that live there have built a pura at the foot of the next mountain in order to appease spirits. Swerving through winding roads, the air seemed thinner and colder as we ascended the path. That evening, Wisnu took me to a lookout point where we witnessed the sight of Mount Bromo in its full glory. The scene was bewitching.

I woke up at 3 am in the morning to start the hike to Mount Bromo, hoping the catch the sunrise. It was blistering cold, reminisce of my time in London, with fierce winds blowing in the air. It was a rainy morning and the path was wet as we hiked up to the lookout point. To our dismay, the sun was shy, hiding behind puffs of clouds, not to be seen. All I could say for that morning was, “tak ada rezeki.”

As the sun shone to the start of day, we took the jeep to the savannah around the mountains. There were fields of dark grey lands extending wide, surrounded by hills of wild grass swaying to the motions of the winds. The savannah was captivating with wild flowers growing on its grounds. Our jeep passed through Pasir Berbisik, which literally means, ‘Whispering Sands’. The name is apt, with the fine grains of sands moving in the direction of blowing winds.

The trip to Bromo left me lovestruck, falling even deeper in love with Indonesia’s nature. Its beauty is unparalleled, its culture uniquely blends the physical with the spiritual, making Indonesia stand out, distinctively different from other places that I’ve been to. I have fallen in love with Indonesia, my heart felt at peace and it is as if I have found another home.

The last leg of the road trip before we adjourned back to Jogjakarta was the city of Solo. We briefly spent the night there and on the next day we visited the Kraton in Surakarta and the antiques market. After the stopover to admire the Kraton and to hear about the royal family, we headed back to Jogjakarta where I spent a few more days before returning to Kuala Lumpur.

My trip across Central Java to East Java was painted with picturesque landscapes and profound cultural practices. Here is where my creative mind can let loose. I felt liberated soaking in the beautiful nature of Indonesia and blending with the culture and people. The people were warm and accepting, and I felt more than welcomed; in fact, it felt like I was one of them. I have genuinely “left my heart in Indonesia,” and I would definitely come back again, insya-Allah.