Langkawi, 2024

There are stories and folklores that shroud the island of Langkawi – the curse of Mahsuri, the conflict that formed the names of two of the most famous places on the island, Kuah and Teluk Belanga, the love story that led to the formation of Tasik Dayang Bunting, and finally, the belief that Langkawi is a ghost town. The first three folklores have become legends in Langkawi, and the final one, from what I have found in my 4-day sojourn, is merely a myth. Far from being a ghost town, Langkawi is a thriving gem, an archipelago of 99 islands scattered all over the Andaman Sea, distinguishable by its greenish-turquoise colored waters, UNESCO-certified luscious forests, and views that enable one to see far into the horizon. Langkawi is both mysterious and fascinating, and relatively underdeveloped in a good way, that allows its visitors to relish in its unspoiled natural habitat and pristine beaches.

My trip to Langkawi was for both pleasure and work. When not needed by my client, I had time to scour its famous tourist spots with my guide En Ruslan, who passionately relayed stories associated with the places I visited. One comes to Langkawi to enjoy the peace and quiet, away from the crowds that overrun more famous hideaways like Bali or Phuket, and on these grounds, I found Langkawi to be especially notable. Langkawi is deeply misunderstood, especially by Malaysians, often being compared to neighboring Thailand, which I feel is very unfair.

This time around, I decided to stay in a homestay instead of a hotel. Kebun Lidstari, a quaint little homestay located at the end of a narrow road in Kampung Sungai Itau, lies almost inside the woods by a stream. It is a charming lodge hosted by the warm and friendly Khalid and Lisz, along with their daughter Tasnim, who made me feel so welcome and comfortable. The homestay is nestled inside a lush orchard with a plethora of plants and fruit trees, where small animals like monkeys and insects live freely in nature. Although it was my first time staying in the forest, I fit in perfectly fine, overcoming inconveniences such as mosquito bites and the sound of crickets at night. Such minor hassles did not bother me for what lies beyond them is the true wonders of nature itself.

A trip to Langkawi is meant for us to marvel at the beautiful scenery and revel in the bounties of nature. To see Langkawi in all its splendor is a must, and where else best to do it other than at the iconic Sky Bridge. From here one can see the island, with its abundant and untouched forests, peaks and valleys, and the sea waves of white froth hurtling to shore. It’s a spectacle to behold and one shouldn’t miss it for the world. Another place to enjoy the panorama of the horizon is at Tanjung Rhu where I was presented with an uninterrupted view of crowns of small islands with a shadowy silhouette of Thailand’s islands far in the horizon. I found the beaches to be clean, the tourists sparse. One can almost have the whole bay to herself, walking barefoot on the sand and simply taking in the spellbinding views.

Langkawi also promises exciting gastronomical adventures. When in Langkawi, one is presented with a wide selection of places to eat which are aesthetically pleasing and Instagram-worthy. One should at least once in her lifetime, try laksa ikan sekoq, kerabu beronok and laktok. There is the perception that Thailand is cheaper than Langkawi, but if we search properly, there are definitely many budget- friendly eateries in Langkawi, such as Warung Jalak Lenteng, Lepak Kampung, Lembayung Café, Dangau Sawah Café and Daun Café Langkawi, just to name a few. Or if you’re in for an adventure, just whimsically stop by any gerai that is strewn along the roads in Langkawi for a pleasant surprise.

One gastronomical adventure I experienced in Langkawi was eating perhaps the best pizza in the world that rivals those made in Italy. Hidden at the end of a sloping hill at Kampung Buluh Penyumpit, there is this small pizzeria which has become a sort of pilgrimage to many of those visiting Langkawi. The restaurant only sits about 20 people at a time, and it is almost always full to the brim after 5pm. Its uniqueness is that it only offers what the chef wants to serve on that day. But the pizzas are heavenly, with its perfectly chewy and charred dough, topped with the freshest local ingredients that we had that day – buffalo cheese, jungle honey and cured veal.

On my last day there, in the heat of the afternoon, I decided to take a slow walk along Pantai Chenang, which is where water sports activities are located in Langkawi. What surprised me most about Pantai Chenang was how clean it was. The side of the beach is scattered with restaurants and I just sat in one of them, people-watching while sipping an iced cold drink. “I could get used to this,” I thought. Then I took a short drive to Hidden Café at Pantai Tengah to enjoy the spectacle of tourists surfing on the waves. According to En Ruslan, Pantai Tengah has deeper waters than Pantai Chenang and it is suitable for surfers who are just beginning to get acquainted with the sport.

My trip to Langkawi was filled with wonder and marvel. It’s no surprise that the island has become a plaything for billionaires who have concocted development plans like building hotels and condominiums, including the much-opposed Widad’s Langkasuka project in plans. More than the place itself, the people of Langkawi truly captured my heart as they welcome visitors with such warmth, whilst still being vehemently protective of the pureness of the island. Although Langkawi is comparatively low-key compared to other more famous islands in the region, it is a must-visit destination for a true getaway from the bustling city or swarm of tourists. Visiting Langkawi made me realize how beautiful and diverse Malaysia is, and how we, as lucky citizens, must cherish and protect the bountiful treasures that we have in the country.